ewephoria<P>

start on rampy polished dihedral with bushes on bottom, near the left edge of the main sheepshead face. look for a beaten flat area along the main descent trail.<P>

p1. slabby polished stemming dihedral (tricky) up the cracks, and bolts to an anchor out left. sustained at a moderate grade.<P>

p2. step left to bolt, adn go up straight (small cams) to bolts going up.<P.

p3. thin edging on polished slab up to bolts and exciting undercling move, then traverse rgiht over lip, then up chicken heads about 40' to anchor. consider backcleaning QD's when possible (lots and lots of bolts on this pitch).<P>

p4. up chickenheads until bolts on steeper friction above. step right under headwall (can put gear in here if you climb high) to bolt at lip and anchor above.<P>

p5. go R on ledge to secure but unaesthetic ramp/chimney (may have to effectively solo chimney if you climb it the secure way), or - go straight up from anchor on bolts past wild and airy 5.8. bring hand-size cams for a placement b/w bolts.<P.

rack: nuts, and a single set to #2 camalot. bring a couple doubles and a #3 for first pitch if you like to sew it up.<P>

fire sermon. 5.10a wasteland dome. rack: blue alien to #2 camalot, single set. 14 draws and two double length slings for chickenheads. bring a couple RPs and small/med ballnuts for P4 crux. if no ballnuts, at least have some RPs and consider a thin (like the mammut dyneema) sling to do a tricky thread at the same spot.<P>

p1. start per wasteland, go up to rap thread anchor seen from approach. go up alcove (2 bolts) and then up and right on featured slaby rib to ledge.<P>

p2. spicy pro at 5.8. up and right throguh 4 bolts (slabby), then gear (broken, scrambly) to big ledge right of the large tree. 2 bolts, and wasteland chimney is down and right.<P>

p3. 2 bolted lines. take the right one. follow bolts (7 or 8?) for more than half a rope. exposed and steep. fun. sustained. onto chicken heads, angle right to anchor about 15 or 20' down frmo headwall. do not go to high. anchor bolts hard to see. anchor is near where wasteland pulls over roof.<P>

p4. possibly easier than p3 but felt more serious to me. go up and right throguh sparse bolts and some questionable rock (by cochise standards) to huge hanging alcove. go up right side of alcove (flare chimney with edges) with trick pro, a bolt or two, and a lot of birdshit. then jog to the top.<P>

teenage wasteland. 5.10a. four pitches of 10a. beta was scribbled down and may be garbled or copied wrong. beware.<P>

p1. start 35' uphill frmo wasteland up broken crack wtih bolts above. abotu 80'.<P>

p2. up, r-leaning seams bolts to gear. then look left to wasteland dike. diagonal left to this dike, cross wasteland, and go into obvious weaknesses up and left. (left of the chimney). at top of crack, diagonal up adn right (5.2 wide) on top of boulder at top of flat rock. 2 bolts, 150'<P>

p3. 2 bolted lines. take L one. chimeny on left, past bolts (face) after apx 4th bolt, go up to bolts on steep rock, past r-leaning corner. past chickens and steep bolts and angle left on small ledge to 2 bolt anchor on edge of buttress.<P>

p4. up, into roof, bolts, #2, go up past lizardskin up and right. one bolt to go up to easier terrain. head leftish to bolt(s?) and its easy to teh top.