high crag approach:

take your favorite way to the oak creek drainage. hike up until you get to the spot where the canyon pinches down (gets steep on solar slab side) and forces you off trails into the drainage. drainage turns corner to right here. look for cairns on left, and take improbale-looking trail through bushes and up bad red band to gully with occasional bushes. cairns as of 4/15/06. follow for a decent bit of elevation until you get to a small platform on right side of gully. to left is a slab with a small tree above it, and a broken gully system leading to top of first step of pillar system. exposed 4th class up this, or rope up for the tricky moves on bad rock, to base of route. 

there are two clean varnished chimney-to-cracks visible. the one on the left (wider chimney) is the route. climb to beautiful chimney, cruise it, and exit to long thin hands crack to top of pillar. before pulling onto belay, consider slotting a nut at the lip of the crack. the bottomless crack beneath you looks like it would really grab a rope without a nut to ride over. belay is best with #.5 and #.75 cams, but supplement with big nuts. a long pitch. 170'?. 5.9? the chimney is not well protected. tipped-out #6 friend or #6 camalot (new style) may give you some peace of mind, but i think its better to just be solid on chimneys and enjoy it until the perfect thin-hands pro at the top before exiting the narrowing chimney

second pitch heads up face to a section of low-angle offwidth (#5 C4 cam, hand/fist stacks), up the dihedral, and to the top. below the prominent roof, you have options. the two best are to pull around the roof and over, at ~5.9, but smearing feet on a very licheny section. or, from the platform below the roof, step left onto varnished face and climb to top (easy). hand size cams at belay. 135'? 5.7?

rappel anchors, set up 4/15/06. each has at least one ring/biner. consider bringing an old cordalette and some tied runners to beef them up if they are getting old.

from top, rappel off of two jammed knots and a thread to climber's right of summit past broken gully/dihedral, heading back to gully you came from. stop at first good ledge, pull rope, and walk skier's left to bushy section. rap off of two bushes to ledge with huge tree. pull rope, then traverse skier's left up over slab (instead of bushwhacking straight down) to third tap off of huge tree. third rap goes down incredible mossy face (be nice to the moss! put rope where other's rope went!) to packs. at least one of the rappels need a double-rope. not sure of lengths.

rack: green alien to #3, doubles yellow alien to #2, and a #5 C4 camalot (same size as old #4.5 camalot). consider extra .75, and definitely bring extra #1 and #2s for the long long stretch of thin hands. generally a #2 friend is even better. you can get a few nuts in on features, but they aren't great.