peacemaker - 10a 6p
fun, very well protected clip-up route on excellent rock. bring a few bits of gear for the occasional non-crux runout, but it is mostly a sport route. all anchors are huge painted metolius rap hangers.
rack: very small selection of nuts (six nuts small to medium will be fine), tcus, aliens blue to grey, no more than 16 draws. this may feel like too much gear by the end of the route, but I can't remember exactly what I used.
approach: see absinthe beta.
P1. friction up bolted slab, past steeper section, to a couple more bolts and anchors. about 5.9
P2. pull two lips to anchors at ledge. 10a.
P3. right leaning crack (takes gear) over bulge. 5.9ish
P4. pull over bulge then sustained thin edging/friction. delicate at times. 10a crux.
P5. weird start, follow bolts up to tree ledge. and scramble to highest part of ledge. 5.9ish.
P6. see another anchor at the left side of the ledge on the buttress. it has its own bolts, but this is not your line. above you there are two lines of bolts. stay on the left one, following bolts. pass one station on right, keep up until at another ledge with another station (smaller non-rap bolts). go up to another anchor (w/ rap bolts) 20' above, or with a 60m rope, continue up another 20'ish feet to top of climb. bring the gear for anchor and fiddle something in to backup a solid body belay in big hueco.
descent: see absinthe beta.