6514 4th/3d class direct approach slab to lower painted bowl, from drainage, about 100 yards before canyon fork. 6517 ?? 6518 black arch wall, from approach slab to lower painted bowl (see 6514) 6521 the 'ibm' boulder (a la swain's guide) looking east (from lower on the black orpheus descent). This is the prominent rounded boulder perched on the shoulder to the west of the lower painted bowl. It is a landmark for a lot of approaches and descents. It is about as tall as a person. STA_6522, STB_6523, STC_6524, STD_6525, STE_6526 Pre-stitch photo panorama of the eagle wall and the painted bowls. The bottom right of the rightmost photo is the big juniper at the top of the right (east) side of the black arch wall. Taken from the ibm boulder shoulder. 6527 the upper and lower painted bowls, taken from the ibm boulder shoulder. The broken ramp systems leading up and left in the center of the photo are the normal approach to the upper painted bowl. The new single-rope rappel from black Orpheus is visible in this photo, although hard to pick out if you don't know where it is. 6528 the lower painted bowl slab approach, on the way to the access scramble upper painted bowl. Visible on the shoulder in the distance is the ibm boulder. Up and right from the photo is the scramble to the eagle wall. 6532 oak creek landmark. There is a lot of trail that has been beaten into the north side of the drainage that avoids a lot of the harder boulder hopping. This boulder is a downstream landmark for a good place to get onto the trail when approaching. It goes for a long time, with some scrambly moves here and there. 6533 delete 6535 oak creek landmark. At the big pool above the fork, there is a good trail on the south side of the drainage that avoids harder scrambling. 6538 the approach slab for the direct approach to the lower painted bowl. 6538b the approach slab for the direct approach to the lower painted bowl, with the easiest line drawn in. basically- when you get near the fork on the approach, start looking on the right side of the drainage for trails. Do not take the first POS trail you see heading up. A large collection of boulders is visible between the drainage and the slab. You are going left of this. Continue walking past the slabs, find a trail that leads to easy boulder walking (with bushes, but no bushwhacking) up from the lower left side of the slabs. Head up and right to the base of the varnish. 4th class up on decent plates for a few minutes, then step right into the crack. Follow this until it is easy enough to step onto the face and head up. After a while an obvious bushy gully appears on your right. There are many entrances into the gully, the first few of which will lead to uphill shwacking. Stay on the slab until the bushes become more sparse and you can walk in it. Hug the left side of the gully and exit above to a ledge system that takes you west (left) along the base of a headwall below the lower painted bowl. When possible, do the occasional 4th class/bouldery move to move up to higher ledges, all the while trending west, and you will pop out onto the shoulder where the ibm boulder is. 6565 black arch wall, from shoulder of direct approach to painted bowls 6577 photo from halfway up mountain beast of the second half of the rainbow descent. The angling gullies (angling down and right) visible in the top left of the photo are the walk/rap gullies from the summit (top out of chicken lips, etc). this takes you to the big bushy ledge visible in the upper center of the photo. From there, the hidden double-bolt rap descends the visible water streak (just right of a varnished face) 100' to a walk off ramp (white to red ramp, trending down and right) which ends out of sight behind the big pink (red-capped) rock rib that makes creates the gully that hugs the base of the wall. This gully was the original single-rope descent from black Orpheus and is the fastest way to the base of the upper painted bowl if you left a pack there. 6589 photo from the eastern summit of the eagle wall of the bottom of the black Orpheus descent. The gully on the left upper side of the photo is the gully that hugs the base of the upper painted bowl. the new single rope descent starts from one of the weaknesses in the pink shoulder. The prominent crack on the right side of the pink shoulder meets the skyline at the top of black Orpheus. 6589b 6589 with beta drawn in. rainbow_summit.jpg STA_6590, STB_6591, STC_6592, STD_6593, STE_6594, STF_6595 Pre-stitch panorama of summit ridge from top of eagle wall. You can, apparently, walk from the top of the rainbow wall (not pictured, behind summit ridge) around left of this photo set and get onto this summit ridge. Walk up and left from here to the top of chicken lips. Visible on the far lower right of the photo is the big ledge with trees/bushes that you rap from to regain the black Orpheus descent. 6596 photo of the left shoulder of the eagle wall summit ridge. The old rainbow wall descent was to walk south to here and head down oak creek. 6597 yet another chicken lips descent shot 6597b beta drawn in on chicken lips descent. Finish walking down ramp to big tree ledge. Scramble down to where the water run is, and step (exposed) left under the overhang to a hidden two bolt anchor. 100' rap to ramp to black Orpheus topout. The other rap pictured is the start of the single rope rappel to the lower painted bowl. lost_canyon.jpg STA_6598, STB_6599, STC_6600, STD_6601, STE_6602, STF_6603 Summit ridge across the slot canyon to the north, taken from the summit of chicken lips. You are looking at the backside of the summit of the rainbow wall. The canyon that is between the photo point and the distant ridge is not juniper canyon. Juniper is on the other side of the pictures summits. The slot between juniper and oak creek is chossy looking white rock, lots of rock fall. Looks interesting for canyoneering or a hike. Maybe. Visible on the bottom right of the series is olive oil and Geronimo in the distance. 6604 mt Wilson, from the chicken lips topout. 6605 the rap station on the chicken lips descent. 4/06. 6606 photo of the chicken lips descent gully/rap/ramp from below. To find the gully, top out chicken lips and scramble up to the local summit. The local summit is the highest point between the obvious huge summit beyond a saddle to the east, and the summit further to the west above eagle wall. From this local highpoint, scramble straight down (left of the small headwall) for a few hundred feet to a terrace with low angle broken rock heading down and left (towards the visible top of the black Orpheus formation). There are cairns (as of 4/06) pointing out the correct gully to take. Basically, head down a few hundred feet from the aforementioned summit. Step into the broken rock bowl, and head left to have a look at the gullies heading down and left. In one, there are two obvious big trees visible. This is the one you want. (more cairns, 4/06). Follow this (easy, unexposed) to the second big tree, and then make a short rap. If there is any water around, be sure to rap to the (climber's) left side of the arte under the tree, as there is a puddle under the chimney beneath the tree on the right side. At the bottom of the rap, walk down to more ramps heading down and left to the visible big ledge with bushes and a big pine tree. There are two obvious gullies heading there. The one along the base of the cliff is less exposed, but is bushy and difficult. The next one out is more exposed, but is really 3rd class with one butt-slide move and takes you with a few minutes easy walking to the ledge. In this photo, you are looking at the upper gully that begins the descent. The big tree is the one you rap off of. (two good slings and a biner 4/06). There is another big tree further up the gully that you pass on the way down. The smaller tree at the base of the chimney is not visible from the top of the gully. 6607 another shot of the chicken lips descent, from the ramp walk to the big ledge. In the upper center, you can see the big tree you rap off of. Then you cross skier's right across a slab (pink) to the cracks angling down to this photo. Walk down there. Butt-slide down 10' of steeper rock, and walk to where this photo was taken. 6607b 6607 with the line drawn in. 6609 rapping the water run on the chicken lips descent 6610 from the rap, walk down the ramp to the black Orpheus formation. Short 4th class moves at end of ramp. 6613 upper pitches of chicken lips. (from black Orpheus formation) 6613b 6613 with beta drawn in 6614 on the way to the single rope descent from black orpheus (cairns 4/06). Follow the weakness down to a sloping ledge with rap station. Second station is only 50' down. Don't skip it. Third station is a longer rap. Then rap to 4th class slabs in lower painted bowl. the rap goes fine with a 60m. 6619 further down the weakness on the way to the single rope descent off black Orpheus 6620 photo of the broken gullies below the upper painted bowl. the obvious downwards-pointing 'v' is the first rap (off a chockstone with slings, hidden from above). Then scramble down a few yards to another rap off a tree (lower angle, heading down and left in this photo) to the top of the lower paitned bowl. this descent works fine, but requires a sketchy 4th class slip-n-slide descent from the top of the black Orpheus descent. The new line (6619) works better, unless you left packs at the base of the upper paitned bowl. 6566 the lower painted bowl, from the ibm boulder shoulder. To find the black arch rappel traverse to big tree at east (skier's left) end. scramble down to lowest point (bushes, exposed move to small ledge). Two bolts and rings are slightly out of sight, concealed by a bush. rap to middle of face (double ropes needed. 50m prob fine..). slung blocks as of 4/06. mid-face station is a ways to climber's right of fall line from upper station. then rap 105' to slabs to drainage. Follow slabs mostly down and right to get back to drainage. Unless there is a fast way I don't know about, for a party who has the black Orpheus descent wired, it probably doesn't save much (or any?) time. 6621. looking down at the small exposed ledge where the black arch descent rappels start. 123 photo of the chicken lips descent from the black orpheus formation. the good descent gully is the one on the upper left side of the photo with the trees in it. two trees on the diagonal. you rap the second one past the steep bit to a ledge (with the third three). then step skier's right across the pink slab, and then walk down the long ramp that blends in with the rock behind it (hard to pick out that it is a separate ramp here). 124 looking down the beginning of the chicken lips descent from the terrace, above the talus bowl where the gully starts. this point is a couple hundred feet down from the local summit above chicken lips. the trees are in teh gully you go down. 125 the painted bowls, from above. the red talus/bush ledge on the lower right is the ledge of the upper painted bowl. the old single rope descent from there goes down the left-facing shaded notch. visible on the right is the right side of the eagle wall base. the shoulder with the ibm boulder is big and sunlit in the upper right. you can even pick out the boulder. 126 the west edge of mt. wilson, at the oak creek headwaters. from chicken lips summit. 127 mt. wilson. from chicken lips summit. 126, 127, 128 makes a pseudo-stitch. 128 the east edge of mt. wilson, the wilson pimple, and some of the approach trails. from summit of chicken lips. 129 not so great shot of the upper painted bowl from the ibm boulder shoulder. 6631 approach to atman/yin&yang boulder. from calico basin plot, walk around left of the huge formation up good trail to the shoulder. this is the view from the shoulder. routes are around the back right. high_crag.jpg high_crag_beta.jpg STA_6643, STB_6644, STC_6645 pre-stitch (shot on a diagonal) of the approach gully to the high crag (FA 4/15/06 with larry). rope up where photo was taken, scramble (exposed for a move or two, but easy with big holds) left and up slab under bush/tree. then scramble up gully (some exposed harder moves on bad rock. may consider roping up. we did) through bushes to platform at base of route. 6646 shot of bottom of previous photos. left and up across this slab to get to approach gully. 6640 high crag is the stepped pillars in the upper foreground. the pitches are around the right side. follow the occaisonally bushy gully up to it. approach in the oak creek drainage for a while. near where the drainage turns a corner to the right (where the canyon pinches down and you can no longer take higher trails under beulah's/solarslab wall) a few cairns marks an improbably looking entry trail. we put a lot of small cairns in 4/15/06. follow these up a bad band of red rock, then into main gully. 6637 mt wilson from oak creek approach trail 6484 mt wilson from oak creek approach trail 6650 left side of brownstone wall, gunsight notch descent on left (and bird hunter buttress). aqpproach to brownstone wall is up the brown talus (lower left of center in photo), up slabs, and then go towards your route of choice. 6662 summit ridge of brownstone wall, standing near black dagger topout, looking eastish (to climber's right). 6663 back of pine creek, from brownstone summit ridge. mescalito would be hidden behind pink formation on the lower right of photo. 6664 canyon behind pine creek. is lower shaded wall the hidden wall? is big wall at top buffalo wall? 6667 exposed 3rd class traverse to gunsight from brownstone summit 6668 behind the gunsight, above juniper canyon. lots of rock. 6669 black dagger (left extreme of brownstone wall) from the drainage directly beneath it. i think that to approach black dagger, it is faster to come up the drainage (a la rainbow wall approach) until directly beneath the route, leave packs, and scramble to base of route. a couple faint but decent trails pop out of the drainage towards black dagger from directly beneath. for cat scratch fever and all routes right of CSF, the talus-slab-brownstone base approach is probably faster. 6670 crucial route finding point on juniper canyon approach. to get to rainbow/brownstone/up-canyon, take your favorite trail into the area below the rose tower, then find the good trail (arnight trail) that contours high along the slope. keep high on good trails as if approaching for geronimo. whenever trails diverge with two good-looking options, take the high trail. finally, the trail diverges again at the point at which this picture was taken, roughly below geronimo. the approach trail to ger goes right where the cairn (behind branches) is. the best and fastest trail upcanyon jogs left here, although it quickly wraps back around, contouring on good trail along the formation above the drainage for a while before finally being forced into the drainage. 6671 wilson from the oak creek campground approach road 6672 wilson from the oak creek campground road approach. the road starts on the highway, steers right, and finally gets to a mess of trails roughly between the wilson pimple and wilson itself. the approach gully to res arete and inti wantana is accessed by choosing your faint trail of choice from the myriad of trails between the pimple and wilson and following it up loose slopes to the right side of the steep rotten band of rock. a big ledge (not obvious from below) is found between the white/pink band and the upper red band which takes you left into the approach gully. follow the gully up (a few steep steps, with rap anchor above the trickiest one), until it peters out. down-scramble 30' when the trail peters out and you can join in with the main gully to your left. then go up for another 15 minutes (or so) keeping an eye on the enormous pine tree on the left side of the gully (nothing like it above or below). there is a dirty tunnel-through at one point in this gully, but it is more pleasant to exit left to the side of the gully and 3rd/4th class up the side until above it. get to the pine tree. go up the cold dark gully directly above it to access inti wantana (past tunnel through big perched block) or step left from pine tree to res arete. approach took us (first time, but in good shape) 1:45 from car on highway at the old campground road. 6672b res arete/inti wantana approach drawn in 6676 solar slab and upper pitches of black orpheus, from upper pitches of inti wantana. solar slab and solar slab descent gully visible, as well as complete chicken lips descent. 6677 wilson approach trail far right. oak creek campground trailhead visible in upper right corner. follow road (even though it veers towards oak creek) until a mess of trails head toward wilson around the wilson pimple. 6678 wilson approach trail center. upper left corner shows the two main trails into oak creek. leftmost trail is from oak creek trailhead on loop road. the other trail heading towards highway is the 'donkey trail', which is a good trail direct to oak creek from highway. to find donkey trail trailhead, drive past exit to loop road, and stop at first burro warning sign (its close!). 6679 wilson approach trail left. see previous photo explanation. 6696 the little joe formation, from the base of hte community pillar wall. bolted climb on left arete/face, TR 5.9 chimney (exsqueeze me) 6700/6701 hard looking tip/fingers crack starting from behind little joe formation. 6704 little joe formation, community pillar on left. 6710 the broken oak creek side of wilson, from the drainage. the stairway is visible on right skyline. bit stepped pillars. 6711/6712 two shots of the lower rappels on the stairway descent. 6713 looking down into the approach gully to the stairway, from high on the approach to crack mcmuffin. 6714 upper crack on stairway approach gully. 6715 lower half of solar slab, from the crack mcmuffin approach 6716 the full solar slab wall, from the crack mcmuffin approach 6718 upper solar slab/black orpheus/rainbow summit/rainbow descent/upper painted bowl 6721 eagle wall/upper painted bowl/black orpheus/upper solar slab/black arch 6722 up oak creek canyon north fork, catwalk area, eagle wall, black arch, painted bowls 6723 neat looking boulder formation near drainage in oak creek, with a corner/crack system in it. one pitch. 6727 same rock, from drainage. rock is on the left. not too far before where you can get onto the trails that lead (down canyon) to the solar slab area (assuming traveling from upcanyon to mouth of canyon) 6729 the stairway, seen from up canyon. you can pick out the right dihedral from here.