Tom Grundy's Thakhek Laos Climbing Page

This page is for words and pictures about the rock climbing near Thakhek in Laos. We also did the Konglor Loop and spent a fair amount of time in Thakhek and did a few other excursions in the area.

The main excuse for this trip was climbing and even if I spent a lot of time not climbing, that was the impetus for getting me here. The climbing is on limestone, with 2 main types - tufa - built up cave sorts of features, and more solid limestone with edges and pockets. It was a little reminiscent of Reimer's Ranch in Texas, but much bigger in all ways except for the river. The best climbing for me was a combination of the two, often wildly three dimensional climbing on steep rock. The area has a number of sectors with easily enough climbing for a season if not more, especially if you were projecting things. There was a good mix of grades up to at least about 5.8 to the upper 5.12 range I think the better climbing started mid 5.10 and up. The anchors were mostly 2 bolts tied together with a section of rope with a screwlink on the bottom bolt. This worked, but didn't inspire confidence and is not nearly as convenient as the mussy hooks I have been spoiled with around Bishop. Some the steeper climbs had fixed draws which made for "low commitment" climbing as well as not requiring a really painful cleaning process. It seemed like showing up here without a partner would be ok as finding a partner probably wouldn't be that hard (thankfully I wasn't in that position, but it seemed like those that were found partners). A 70 M rope was good enough for most routes although there were some rope stretchers, you could do a fair bit of climbing with a 60M rope but you would be somewhat limited and a few routes required an 80 M rope. There are a few multipitch climbs and some climbs that start from ledges accessed by climbing but we mostly avoided those. Some of the climbing was pretty sharp and a few holds were polished, but nowhere near the amount of polish encountered somewhere like Tonsai in Thailand. At the start of the season a number of climbs were fairly dirty from the wet season, the popular climbs cleaned up pretty quickly.

near the beginning of "Nubbel" at the Weisse Wand

There were a number of things to consider here that you might not think of - there are venomous snakes (we didn't see any at the climbing area), some pretty big spiders, giant millipedes (half of one fell out of the sky (or off the overhanging cliff?) and hit Julie's helmet while she held it in her hand). There are also a number of goats roaming around as well as water buffalo. They didn't seem to be a problem for climbing but you had to watch your step. There were various insects too, annoying little sweat bees and mosquitos and ants. The ants would swarm food if they could. The mosquitos weren't as bad as at Tonsai, especially jungle Tonsai. We had a scorpion in our bathroom one night - it was a good reminder to always shake out your shoes before putting them on.

Logistically the easiest way to climb here is to stay at Green Climber's Home (GCH). They have huts and tents for rent here. The prices seemed a little high for the area but hopefully that goes to help keep things more environmentally friendly as well as support route development and maintenance and they are quite nice. The huts are up on stilts for protection from the wet season flooding and they feature large bathrooms with hot water showers and nice porches with a hammock. They also served food and drinks there, but once again a little bit pricy (compared to the cheapest offerings in Thakhek) and less variety as well as perhaps less authentically local? There wasn't any other food to be had without at least a bit of a walk when you were out there so bring your own or be ready to travel or buy it there. Pro tip - wade through the cave to get to some shops and places that serve food. It would be pretty easy to just go straight to GCH and spend all your time there and not really experience much else - it would be a great trip, but I would feel like I missed out on a lot of Laos. I think it would be possible to stay in or near town and commute a lot cheaper than just staying at the GCH but you could also spend more. It was about a wash for us with the benefit of internet access, better food options, and more exposure to Laos and the downside being commuting (about 30 minutes one way and potentially dangerous and a bit of a pain and required a vehicle or being able to hitch or get rides) and more pollution in town (they still burn trash there). Staying at GCH is more relaxing, has no internet access, lets you get to know other climbers and travelers, work on your slacklining... I think staying some of the time at GCH and some of the time in town was a good mix, especially for first time visitors. If you were doing more traveling around Laos it might be a nice break to just stay at GCH and you wouldn't be missing out on seeing some of the country.

our hut - number 67

view from the porch - center building is the bar / restaurant / lounge

home sweet Green Climber's Home

a little surprise on our bathroom floor one night - scorpion mom and a heap of babies

We were there starting in early October 2018 through the end of the month. It was definitely hotter and more humid than optimal for me climbing, especially in the beginning of the trip. I should have brought my wrist sweat bands and there was some serious aggro-sheen and even dripping going on - pro tip - either keep your hands up so the sweat drips off your elbow or else keep your pinky down so that the sweat drips off there. It was still climbable for sure, but we had to stay out of the sun, which meant waiting for the afternoon for a lot of the walls. We didn't do a very good job of getting an early start even for the walls that got morning shade although that would have helped with the temperature if not the humidity. The weather was unseasonably dry with very little rain (which was appreciated). This is the start of the dry season, but it usually rains a little more. The start of a few climbs were a little muddy, but it didn't really stop us. Supposedly things get a little cold around new years, but I saw locals wearing coats while I was there and sweating in shorts and a t-shirt so don't necessarily trust pictures of people wearing jackets. It felt like the temperature dropped the last week of October. Since there were just the 2 of us I had to set the timer or use a remote trigger for climbing pictures (and I didn't have a good tripod). With a larger group there would have been more interesting photos.

Jen on the start of "cheeky f*er" at the Great Roof Right

on "cheeky f*er" at the Great Roof Right

night photo fun - the main cliff is on the right

starting up "friesepimpel" at the Elephant

a busy morning at Partymeile

Jai on "no knee to worry" on the Great Roof Center

Julie starts up "Songbird" at the Butterfly

on "Pi Mai" at the Great Roof Right

cropped in on "Pi Mai" at the Great Roof Right

starting up "Sacrifice" at Lost Souls

Julie on "Sacrifice" at Lost Souls

Julie higher on "Sacrifice" at Lost Souls

crag lunch - noodles with greens
I ordered 2 servings at the market and had them
put into my tupperware. YUM

For the first week or so we climbed in a number of areas just sampling what was available as well as getting used to the rock. After that I spent a fair bit of time trying to climb "Jungle King" at the Great Roof. This was a pretty sweet line that was quite overhanging (about 45 degrees) and long but also featured a few no hand rests as well as numerous knee bars and other large features to make it less desperate. I got up to the last draw fairly consistently after a few goes but then worked out some difficult beta heading up and right. After falling at what was the last hard move going that way I was told that it is a lot easier to go left. I tried again that afternoon but couldn't get up to that point cleanly. I hang dogged my way up and then discovered that it was in fact a whole lot easier to go left. The next climbing day Julie was feeling a bit sick but she kindly went out and endured one more marathon belay session as I sent. At least it was a really cool climb that I took a number of extra tries to get. Unfortunately the tries did take a long time and tired me out for much else afterwards. Once I was done with that process I had a whole lot more endurance for steep stuff and I managed to send a few more steep climbs but I didn't project anything else.

at the top of "jungle King"
note Julie belaying just left of the watcher's foot

cropped in on previous image
I am heading right but should be going left

unknown climber passing the anchor of "Cheeky F*er on the way up "Jungle King"
this is about the bottom of the crop above - it really was steep

All in all the climbing here was most excellent and there are plenty of routes - some 360 as of 2018 with plenty of rock for more. Easily enough for a season of climbing for all but the strongest of climbers. In fact the amount of rock in the area is simply astounding. I am guessing the weather is better November through February, but it certainly was climbable in October when we were there. For rest days if you are tired of resting you can visit caves (some within easy walking distance) or rent a bicycle or go into town for more options. It doesn't have a beach or much of a "scene" but you can swim in the creek and relax or hang out with fellow climbers.

evening light on some cliffs to the NE

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