Tom Grundy's Red Rocks October 2016 Page

After the WFR course in Bishop, Nalumon came to visit and some of her Boston friends were in Bishop too. Then she planned to head to Red Rocks to continue the reunion and meet up with Danielle before heading to LA with her. It sounded like fun so I joined in. It took a little longer to pack up than originally planned so we didn't stop at the bristlecones on the way but we made it in time to meet up Monday the 10th and then head out to the campground. After dinner we sat around the fire and there were even some smores.

sitting around the fire

The next day we planned on doing some trad and sport climbing around Calico Basin. Things didn't go exactly as planned in that we separated ways more than we thought we would. Eventually we re-assembled at the Cannibal Crag where Nalumon and I had been all day. I didn't get any climbing pics until the others showed up though. I was still working on getting my climbing strength and endurance back (probably a project that will consume the rest of my life). I did ok for a while but eventually I just couldn't hang on any more and started taking falls or just hanging on bolts. There was one easier trad line there I was going to do but a little gopher snake went up it and I decided it was best to leave it alone (and some people training for a guides course were using the anchor for a long time). We were treated to a nice waxing moon rise. That night we went out for 1/2 priced burgers. Zak and Chris had to head back to reality, so we went from 7 to 5.

gopher snake climbing a crack

Val topropes "pickled"

Chris on something hard on the steep side

Val leads "what's eating you"

I'm not sure what was happening here, but it was amusing

old glory (the rope) was pretty filthy

unknown climber on "caustic" with the moon

On Wednesday we planned to climb "Cat in the Hat" as a party of 5. (well, really a party of 2 and a party of 3 and then share ropes for the rappel from the top of the 5th pitch). We had a semi-planned leisurely start and got to the base around 12:30. Sadly another party showed up about the same time. I was going to let them go first but they weren't making any effort to get ready, so I went up. Then just one of them came up and rapped back down the first pitch - I guess they didn't have enough time for a first multipitch experience for one of them. There was a huge ledge at the top of this pitch which was nice as other parties rapped down through here as we were coming up. One of them remarked on our unusual party with 9 X chromosomes and only one Y. Lucky me, climbing has changed for the better.

Nalumon gets to the 3rd anchor on "Cat in the Hat"

We continued on up with high clouds and a breeze keeping us from getting seared. I skipped the 4th anchor and diagonalled up from the 3rd to the 5th. This saved Nalumon from a straight traverse (with large pendulum potential) but made for a lot of rope drag. At the top of the 5th I built a second anchor above the bolted one to clear up some space. It would have been really crowded with 5 of us clipped to the anchor.

Nalumon above the top of the 5th pitch

Party of 5 - Tom, Nalumon, Jill, Danielle, and Val

The sun went behind the mountains as we started down - this dropped the temperature a lot. Descending with 5 was quite slow and it was pretty much dark by the time we got to the ground. Fortunately we had already called for a late exit and there was a pretty full moon to light most of the way back (as well as 4 headlamps).

preparing to rap

armed with a smile, Nalumon heads down

On Thursday Nalumon and Danielle had a hard departure time to avoid LA traffic. Before that we had to drink coffee, take some group acro pics, and say goodbye.

a little acro

a little more acro

The rest of us headed to the second pullout where Jill had unfinished business on Sweet Pain. First we warmed up in the Black Corridor and then headed over to Sweet Pain. She sent it first try hanging the draws and made it look pretty casual. I went up next. With the help of a lot of beta I managed to redpoint it too. It was good that the holds were huge at the top though. This was my first 5.12 back in 1997 but now it is rated 5.11d. Then we did a pumpy 5.11b there before heading out and saying goodbye. Then I went to the Sahara library and caught up on the internet 'til closing time. I headed up over Spring Mountain and camped in the BLM land out there.

Jill gets ready

Jill on one of the crux moves

celebrating the send

I slept in the next morning and then drove through Death Valley and back to Bishop. The trip was a bit brief but a lot of fun.

waxing gibbous moon

Return to the Index Page